How to Draught-Proof a Victorian Terrace for Under £50 in Lancashire
Victorian terraces are a defining feature of Lancashire towns like Accrington, Darwen, Nelson and Colne. They’re full of character, but they can also be full of draughts. The good news? You can draught-proof most problem areas for under £50 in a single weekend, cutting your heating bills by £100-£200 a year.
Why Victorian Terraces in Lancashire Are So Draughty
Victorian terraces were built between the 1840s and 1900s, long before anyone thought about energy efficiency. They were designed to ventilate – which was important for coal fires but is a nightmare for modern heating systems. Gaps around sash windows, oversized letterboxes, unused chimneys and ill-fitting doors all let cold air pour in.
Lancashire has a huge stock of these properties. In the BB postcode area alone (Blackburn, Burnley, Accrington), Victorian terraces make up a significant proportion of housing. Many were originally built for mill workers, and while they’ve been updated inside, the basic structure still lets heat escape. If you can feel cold air around your windows, doors or fireplace on a windy day, you’re paying to heat the street.
Your Draught-Proofing Shopping List (Under £50)
Here’s everything you need, with realistic prices from hardware shops and online retailers. You don’t need to do every item – just tackle the areas where you feel the most draughts first.
| Item | Cost | Annual Saving | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|
| Self-adhesive door draught strips (external doors) | £3-£8 | £20-£30 | Easy |
| Letterbox brush cover | £5-£10 | £10-£20 | Easy |
| Chimney draught excluder (balloon or sheep wool type) | £8-£20 | £30-£50 | Easy |
| Sash window foam sealing strips | £3-£5 per window | £15-£25 per window | Moderate |
| Keyhole covers | £2-£4 | £5-£10 | Easy |
| Under-door brush strip | £5-£8 | £15-£25 | Easy-Moderate |
Total spend for a typical two-up two-down terrace: £30-£50. Total potential saving: £100-£200 per year. That’s a payback period of just a few months, making this one of the best energy saving investments you can make.
Step-by-Step: Draught-Proofing Your Front and Back Doors
Difficulty: Easy | Time: 20 minutes per door | Cost: £3-£8
Your front door is usually the biggest single source of draughts in a Victorian terrace. The gaps around the frame grow over time as timber doors warp and shrink. Here’s how to fix it:
1. Close your door and look for daylight around the edges. Run your hand around the frame on a cold day to feel where air is getting in.
2. Clean the door frame with a damp cloth and let it dry completely. The adhesive won’t stick to dusty or damp surfaces.
3. Measure the top and sides of your door frame. Cut your self-adhesive foam strip to length.
4. Peel off the backing and press the strip firmly into the rebate (the L-shaped step in the frame where the door closes against). Work from the top down.
5. Close the door to check it still shuts properly. If it’s too tight, use a thinner strip. If there are still gaps, add a second layer.
For the bottom of the door, fit a brush strip. You’ll need to measure the width of your door, cut the strip to size, and screw it to the inside face of the door so the bristles just touch the threshold. This is slightly more involved but still a straightforward job.
Compare quotes from qualified installers in your area. It takes 30 seconds.
How to Draught-Proof a Letterbox on a Victorian Door
Difficulty: Easy | Time: 10 minutes | Cost: £5-£10
Victorian letterboxes tend to be larger than modern ones, and they let in a surprising amount of cold air. You have two options. A brush-style letterbox cover fits over or behind the existing opening and uses bristles to block draughts while still allowing post through. These are the most popular choice and just screw into the back of the door over the letterbox slot.
Alternatively, a hinged flap cover provides a tighter seal. Some homeowners fit both a brush and a flap for maximum effect. Either way, this is a ten-minute job with a screwdriver.
Blocking Chimney Draughts in Your Lancashire Terrace
Difficulty: Easy | Time: 5 minutes | Cost: £8-£20
If you have an open fireplace that you don’t use, it’s acting like an extractor fan – pulling warm air out of your house 24 hours a day. An unused chimney can account for up to 40% of a room’s heat loss, according to the National Energy Foundation.
A chimney draught excluder solves this instantly. The most popular type is an inflatable balloon that you push up into the flue and inflate. It blocks the airflow completely but is easy to remove if you ever want to use the fire again. Chimney Sheep (made from felted wool) is another well-regarded option that sits in the throat of the chimney.
Important: never block a chimney permanently without proper ventilation. If you have a gas fire, do not block the flue at all – this is a safety issue. Chimney balloons and similar products are designed for open fireplaces that are not in use.
Draught-Proofing Sash Windows Without Ruining the Character
Difficulty: Moderate | Time: 30-45 minutes per window | Cost: £3-£5 per window
Sash windows are one of the best features of a Victorian terrace, but they’re often the worst offenders for draughts. Over time, the gaps between the sashes and the frame widen as the wood dries out and paint layers build up unevenly.
For a budget fix, self-adhesive foam strip works well on sash windows. Apply it to the inside faces where the two sashes meet (the meeting rail) and along the sides where the sashes slide in the frame. Use a thin, compressible foam so the windows still open and close smoothly.
For a more permanent solution, you can have brush-pile draught strips fitted into grooves in the window frame. This is a professional job (typically £80-£150 per window) but lasts for decades and preserves the look and function of original sash windows. If you’re in a conservation area in places like Clitheroe or Lancaster, this is usually the preferred approach.
Don’t Forget Keyhole Covers and Other Small Fixes
Difficulty: Easy | Time: 5 minutes | Cost: £2-£4
Victorian doors often have large keyholes that let in a steady stream of cold air. A simple escutcheon plate with a pivoting cover costs just a couple of pounds and takes minutes to fit. While you’re at it, check for gaps around pipes that pass through external walls (use expanding foam or silicone sealant), and make sure your loft hatch sits flush with a strip of foam tape around the frame.
These small fixes individually save only a few pounds a year, but together they add up. Every gap you seal means your boiler works less hard, and your home stays warmer for longer.
What About Professional Draught-Proofing in Lancashire?
If you’d rather not DIY, professional draught-proofing for a full Victorian terrace typically costs £200-£400. This usually covers all external doors, windows and chimneys. It’s a worthwhile investment if you want a thorough job, especially for tricky sash windows.
Some Lancashire homeowners may also qualify for free draught-proofing through the government energy efficiency scheme or the government insulation scheme, particularly if you’re on certain means-tested benefits. It’s worth checking your eligibility – you could get the work done at no cost at all.
Frequently Asked Questions
Will draught-proofing cause damp or condensation in my Victorian terrace?
Draught-proofing should not cause damp if done correctly. Victorian houses still have plenty of background ventilation through airbricks, trickle vents and gaps in floorboards. You’re reducing excessive, uncontrolled draughts – not sealing the house airtight. If you notice condensation on windows after draught-proofing, improve ventilation by using extractor fans when cooking or showering and opening windows briefly each day.
Can I draught-proof a rented Victorian terrace in Lancashire?
Yes. Most draught-proofing methods are non-permanent and won’t damage the property. Self-adhesive strips, chimney balloons and letterbox brushes can all be removed when you move out. You don’t usually need landlord permission for these, but it’s polite to let them know. Under the Minimum Energy Efficiency Standards, your landlord is required to bring the property to at least EPC band E, and draught-proofing can help achieve that.
How long does DIY draught-proofing last?
Self-adhesive foam strips typically last 2-5 years before they compress and need replacing. Brush strips and rigid draught excluders last much longer, often 10 years or more. Chimney balloons last indefinitely if you don’t accidentally light a fire with one in place. For the low cost involved, replacing foam strips every few years is still extremely cost-effective.
What saves more energy – draught-proofing or insulation?
Both are important, but draught-proofing is the place to start because it’s so affordable. independent energy organisations estimates that draught-proofing doors and windows may save an estimated £60-£100 per year in a typical home, while adding a chimney excluder can save another £30-£50. Loft and wall insulation saves more overall (£200-£600 per year) but costs significantly more to install. The smart approach is to draught-proof first, then look into insulation and government grants that could cover the bigger jobs.
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